Saudi designer changing the fashion landscape

It’s never too late to follow your dreams. This was proved by Amal ben Hemd, a Saudi fashion designer and founder of Umore Collections, who after initially having a career in interior design, followed her passion in fashion design to create exclusive abayas and kaftans.
After graduating in interior design from Canada in 2000, Amal returned to Saudi Arabia to pursue a career in the same field, but destiny had planned something else for her. She felt a force like gravity pulling her toward fashion, and by taking baby steps into the fashion industry, she launched her own brand.
Read on to learn more about her journey as she shares the fascinating story behind her brave decision to switch careers, starting out in the fashion world, inspirations and much more:

How and why did you make the transition from being an interior designer to a fashion designer?
I worked as a freelance interior designer for almost five years. While doing that, I used to design abayas for myself and gradually started designing for my family members. I had an idea about abaya fashion but little did I know that it would lead to starting my own line. I don’t know what exactly gave me the fire to give it a go. I guess it was my passion to design abayas and thee popularity of my designs that made me switch my career.
I didn’t let fear rule me, instead I decided to put one foot in front of the other and pursued my dream of being a fashion designer. This clear vision is something has helped me.

Are you self-taught or did you study fashion design?
Since my major is in interior designing, I have basic knowledge about designs and patterns. Moreover, my passion for creativity led me to be a capable self-taught fashion designer. However, to be more professional I am currently doing a diploma course in fashion designing and believe that after completing it, I can do more and be much bigger than I am now.

Tell us about your collections.
In 2006, I launched my first abaya collection under Umore. It’s a more casual take on regular abayas using very simple and light materials. Gradually, when Umore became known among women, it allowed me to expand my scope as a designer and encouraged me to add kaftans to my creations in 2009. All my pieces are a blend of Saudi ethnic and modern styles and are available at affordable prices. The fabrics used for all my collections are from different countries that I travel to.

How would you describe your brand and design aesthetic?
My brand targets customers of all ages, be it a teenager or an old lady. My creations are designed with a little bit of twist. I work with fabrics depending on the seasons, if it’s summer, I go with light pastel colors and comfortable materials such as cotton, while in winter, I use thick and heavy-weight linen fabric.
Basically, I like to take something simple and ordinary and glam it up. I see both my creations (abayas and kaftans) as functional, I try to design them in such a way that is stylish, modern, smart and current, and can be worn every day.

The abaya industry in recent years has taken giant leaps and it has become very competitive. How do you maintain your competitive edge and what is it like being in the industry for these many years?
It’s been an amazing long journey in the fashion industry. Personally I don’t believe in competition. Each and every designer has his/her own signature touch, style, personality and vision in their designs.
Umore collection has its own unique style and can be distinguished from other brands. Besides, I love to be around creative people who are also very involved in the business aspect of the fashion world. I think people assume that this industry is filled with a lot of competition and grudges, but that’s certainly not true. One of the things I value most about this industry is that everyone works long hours and is really artistic at what they do. Moreover, I like to be challenged as it helps me to keep going forward. I believe, if you put in the hard work, people will notice and appreciate it.

Do you think your abaya collections have become more attractive to people?
Yes, I think so. People these days love to wear different styles of abayas and I see that they are opening up to new designs than they did 10 years ago.

How has your work progressed since you began your label?
The evolution I see in my work is that I have gotten progressively closer to the essence of the Saudi style yet at the same time made it gradually appealing to a contemporary audience. Besides, I have presented my collections both nationally and internationally in several exhibitions and bazaars and managed to receive good feedback from the audiences. I am working on creating haute couture for my brand in the future.

What advice would you give to young designers?
I didn’t stop myself from turning my passion into a career and the outcome has been great. So my advice would be to follow your passion and when you have the willingness to do something, don’t think too much, just go ahead with it. If you truly love something, go out there and do it!

A new-age leader helps people change their lives

In this day and age, many people are making big changes in their lives as well as in others’ lives by doing what they love. Rozana Rafeeq AlBanawi, a young Saudi girl, is no different.
Being a wife and a mother of two, she took a leap of faith to pursue her dreams and followed her passion of helping others to make a difference in their lives by being an adviser, personal trainer and an organizational leadership coach.

Life coaching is a great option to make a change in the others’ lives, and it’s a delightful job for those lucky people who have a talent for listening and understanding. Rozana shared her beautiful journey and wisdom behind being a coach.

Why did you make the decision to become an adviser, personal trainer and an organizational leadership coach?
I am a hybrid of cultures and backgrounds: Saudi, Lebanese, Turkish and Bosnian. I have come to love the richness and paradoxes of my upbringing. Being the eldest of 10 siblings, I have experienced multiples step families of different continents: Asia, Africa and North America, and these life experiences were the most important education I received. From a very young age, I learned to be curious about our differences, learned to create meaning from them and to connect with others with compassion and love, rather than having conflicts and struggles disintegrate us.
I learned that coming together for the sake of the whole, whether it is a family or a community is a huge gift because it creates power, the sum is larger than its parts. I love to co-lead in the creative community (which is how CreativeMornings came to be), and my passion is growing leadership in everyone who is willing to do so, because I believe we are all born to be responsible for the world around us.

Tell us about Rozabee? What does it mean?
Rozabee is the combination of my first name (Rozana) and last name (Banawi). It is also the relationship between the rose and the bee — they are very different, yet their interdependence creates the much-needed honey and pollination for this world to thrive, and from this metaphor, when we also allow our “being” and “doing” to inform our actions, we thrive and evoke goodness all around. So Rozabee is the name of my working space where I offer services in coaching, training, mentoring and advising — in Human Relations and Leadership Development.

What inspired you to form Rozabee?
My life’s experiences, work and education all put together in one blender! All these helped me to see myself as a leadership mentor that incorporates coaching as a tool.

Does your work involve art and exquisiteness?
Art and beauty are huge values of mine, because I believe people are creative and beautiful human beings with rich inner resources and whole worlds waiting to be explored. I believe we are naturally born to bring beauty to our lives, hometowns and relationships.
Moreover, when we are surrounded with beauty we are more creative, more mindful, more spiritual and more connected with the world around. It makes sense that we are all makers of art, and that we strive to find beauty in daily life!

What type of discussion or training do you provide?
Initially, the first meeting with any client, be it an individual or organization, is about ‘curiosity’; I need to understand that person’s needs very well. Once that is established, we start to co-design a starting plan that fulfills their needs and brings the desired outcomes. Hence, I see “human relations work” like art. There is no one size fits all. Every person is unique and every work process is unique, non-linear, and full of learning and developments. I also offer workshops sometimes in personal growth, and leadership development. I am working on a few new titles for the summer.

Who have you worked with till now? How was the experience working with different organizations?
I worked with individuals, small businesses, multinational corporations and governmental organizations. I worked with nonprofit organizations and academic institutes. That is what I love about my work, I get to meet people from all walks of life, and that enriches my experience. I know I did a good job when I leave a project feeling changed or different as a result of new learning or new insights that emerged because of the people involved. You can check the names on my website http://www.rozabee.com

This concept is something new in the Kingdom. Was there ever a time when you worried about failure?
It is still a challenge to bring this type of work to our part of the world, because even around the world, coaching and leadership development as a profession started to prevail in the west in the 90’s, which is only two decades ago. Counseling as a practice only became common locally when I was an undergrad at Effat University, in 2005. Now, ten years later, people are open to counseling and I see individuals seeking “professional” guidance when it comes to parenting, relationships, divorce, etc. There is a respect for counselors now and I sense something similar is emerging with coaching which I am hopeful about. Over the past few years, I learned that coaches shouldn’t ‘convince’ people to take on coaching. I work better when organization leaders ‘believe’ in this type of work and trust the process, and go through the reality of this work.
Results are more impactful when the leaders are walking the talk, seeking help and getting the support they need, because modeling is the most powerful tool to change a culture.

What is CreativeMornings?
CreativeMornings is a monthly breakfast series for the creative community. Each event is free of charge, and includes a 20-minute talk, plus coffee! It was founded in 2008 by Tina Roth Eisenberg in Brooklyn. It now has grown into 142 chapters worldwide. The Jeddah chapter was granted on Feb. 19, 2016 and we are chapter #137. Our third event is coming up this June, and it will be Ramadan, the theme is Broken, we are excited!

Do you have any advice for someone who is contemplating working with a life coach, but is unsure of the benefits?
To work with a coach demands accountability and a true desire to bring change to your life. The coach does not do the work for you. The coach holds the space for you to lead in your own life. So coaches are not experts in your life, you are! Coaching is a growing experience; clients feel expanded and grown because not only do they find answers to what they were looking for, they find a deepened sense of self-understanding and self-awareness that becomes available once you start to unravel layers of who you are (i.e. values, purpose, and vision) in the coaching process.

Fashion-forward apparel with a twist of tradition

Young Saudi fashion designer Safiah Alaquil is a promising name in the fashion industry. Here brand ‘Badawiah’ is inspired from cultures and traditions of different countries. She uses the traditional craftsmanship of Saudi Arabia and combines it with modern and ethnic fashion. With this project she also aims to support children in need using half of the profits earned. In a chat with Arab News, she talks of her journey so far and where she hopes to see herself in the future.

Tell us about yourself and what sparked your interest in fashion.

I’m Saudi Argentine, so from early childhood, I was exposed to different cultures and the enrichment of traveling. Having relatives in Argentina, I finished my high school there, and then moved to California, where I graduated with a major in Psychology and a minor in Art. Fashion and jewelry design have always been my passion. I first started making jewelry when I was 11, which fed my hunger for designing ever since. I recently moved back to Jeddah and decided to pursue something that combined my love for designing and traveling, along with the opportunity to give back to communities and help children in need. With those elements in mind, Badawiah was created.

Can you tell us more about your clothing label?
The idea behind Badawiah is to blend different ethnic and traditional cultures. I thought of giving a unique colorful twist to something so traditional like an abaya and to include other handmade textiles from around the world. I think women in Saudi Arabia look for freedom of expression while maintaining traditional culture and style and Badawiah abayas just do that. Since each collection is based on different countries where I travel, I am usually able to have a collection ready every 3-4 months.

Apart from being an entrepreneur and a good fashion designer, what do you believe is the role or the responsibility of the contemporary fashion designer in today’s society?
I think a contemporary designer in this society should find a balance between the traditional and modern. Although being a good designer and an entrepreneur is difficult here, the authenticity for fashion arises from the courage of the individual. Since women here want to express their own individual style while still maintaining traditional culture and customs, it becomes our responsibility to create a fashion that may go in their direction yet keeps the designer’s fashion statement.

I have learned that you have recently spent some time in Argentina working on a new fashion design collection. Can you tell us more about this collection?
Yes, I decided to travel to Argentina for my second collection, and it was such a great learning experience. I was able to meet local artisans and learn more about their culture, which is also my culture because my mother is Argentine. I learned how they hand make their wool yarn, and how they use natural products to dye it (like fruits, vegetables, and flowers). Once the yarn is hand spun and dyed, they then weave these beautiful and intricately designed “Aguallos” which can be used for many things. I decided this would be the perfect thing to incorporate into my new collection.
Moreover, I met up with local farmers and gauchos (Argentine cowboys) and noticed they all wore this waistband that is all handmade, and in all different designs and colors, they are called “fajas”. So this is the other item that I am including in my new collection. It’s a nice blend between traditional and artistic designs from Argentina.

How is your new collection different from your last?
I always wanted to create an image of a futuristic and colorful city with the collection having a stronger image than in my previous ones. For this timely collection, I decided to keep the abaya colors more neutral in order to focus more on the colorful trims.

What do you hope to achieve with this collection?
I hope to blend a touch of Argentine style into local fashion, and create a bridge between these two cultures! My main goal for each collection of Badawiah is that people get a taste of another culture while also helping to support children in need in that country.

Is there any other project that you are currently undertaking and where do you see yourself in the future?
This is all I’m focusing on at the moment. My main objective while starting Badawiah was to keep it small scale, and focus on quality. I didn’t start Badawiah to become a huge name in the fashion scene, nor to mass-produce. I enjoy working on each item personally to make sure it’s up to standards and dealing with the customers personally. The fact is I am concerned with the designs, if it triggers a reaction or is able to receive feedback, that’s enough for me.
However, when it comes to future, I see myself exploring new cultures around the world. I love traveling, and I’m so fortunate to have something that combines all of my passions — traveling, designing, and helping children in need.

What are the challenges you faced in starting your own label?
I wouldn’t say I faced any challenges, and this I give credit to my parents who believe and encourage that each person should pursue their dreams and goals no matter what obstacles are ahead. They taught me to believe in myself and always go forward. Moreover, I am still proceeding with this idea, I do this for customers and to be happy, so it makes no difference what challenges I have to go through.

Any tips for new fashion designers?
I’m still new in this fashion industry, so I am getting tips from others. The only advice I have for anyone wanting to start their own line of clothing is to have fun with it, and to never get distracted from the main reason why you started it in the first place.

Saudi Arabia through the lens of western photographers

So the saying goes: “A picture speaks a thousand words”. Yet, it is also true that a picture may even have a message that goes well beyond words alone. Capturing the mesmerizing, colorful and picturesque landscape of Saudi Arabia, Italian and American photojournalists, Roberta Fedele and Miki Turner have held a four-day photo exhibition at the Kondakji Atelier art gallery in Jeddah to demonstrate these characteristics powerfully.
Roberta Fedele, who spent almost eight years in Saudi Arabia, and Miki Turner, who recently visited the country for the first time, combined their spontaneous impressions of this colorful land to create the incredible exhibition, entitled “4 Eyes, 2 Lenses: Visual Narratives of Saudi Arabia”.

Demonstrating art in action, the photographers come from two different cultural backgrounds, yet share the same passion for celebrating spur-of-the-moment images, with a strong sense of narrative. The pictures have indeed, grabbed the attention of hundreds of visitors, giving them an impulse to further browse these amazing Saudi attractions in real life.
Roberta Fedele, founder of AMUSE – a cultural association promoting arts and intercultural dialogue – organized this photographic exhibition as a tribute to Saudi Arabia, a country that she perceives today as her second home. She showcased a selection of 25 photographs taken for Saudi dailies between Najran, Madain Saleh and Jeddah; areas that abound in historical and archeological sites, desert oasis, volcanic areas, traditional souks and Bedouin settlements, while preserving the flavors of the past on the backdrop of Saudi Arabia’s fantastic modernization.
“As I am about to leave soon, I wanted to bid a good farewell to the country, and to leave behind a lasting impression of my memories in Saudi Arabia using a visual means. I believe that images are often more eloquent than words in narrating the societies we live in,” said Fedele.
“Each picture on display represents a real-life painting of my journey, capturing the ordinary and extraordinary moments that crossed my path as well as the complexity and charming contrast of a different culture oscillating between tradition and modernity,” she added.

Describing her journey to Saudi Arabia, she said “I was 27 years old when I first came to Saudi Arabia. I had a monolithic perception of the country, but these visions and views gradually disappeared and my journey of discovery ultimately evolved into a journey of belonging.”
“Working for English dailies gave me the opportunity to cover several events and to travel and photograph remote places in the Kingdom,” said Fedele who unconventionally described her photographic activity as a ‘way of meditation’, a ‘way of Zen’: “To take good photographs you have to strengthen your capacity to observe the world around you. You have to be open to the present moment, develop awareness of your surroundings and be able to capture the right scene in the least expected moment”.
Fedele launched AMUSE with the help of Yasmin Gahtani, a Saudi Graphic Designer. This organization was inspired by “The Art of Re-Invention” (TAOR), an event co-founded by Mike Turner that encourages audiences to pursue their passions by reinventing themselves in their personal and professional life.
The idea to collaboratively organize an exhibition flourished when Fedele invited Turner last May to share stories of re-invention with Saudi women.
Visiting the Kingdom for the second time, Mike Turner, an award-winning photojournalist and the author of two photography books, “Journey to the woman I’ve come to love” and “Tomorrow”, exhibited 20 photographs, including the stunning ‘Abaya Road’, a shot taken in Al-Balad.
“The idea to hold an exhibition was from Roberta, as a way to share our views, experiences and perceptions of Saudi. Being an outsider, it was a great opportunity for me to demystify the image of Saudi Arabia, and show artistic and personal touches in every photo, where one can see how each photo has stories behind it,” Turner said. He added that, “moreover, I hope that this work resonates with the people here, and that the perception of Saudi Arabia is changed through my work – especially in western countries.”
Turner mentioned that although she only spent about 14 days in Saudi, the people here left a huge impact on her. “I loved photographing the people here, and respected those who objected to it. I found most of them very friendly and it was wonderful to capture the spirit of these people through my lenses, particularly the ones I encountered in Al-Balad, the old city,” she said.
“I met wonderful people while I was here and many of them have become close friends. Nonetheless, it’s good to see how many people here in the Kingdom are now open minded and are discovering the joy of good photography. I’d encourage people from western countries to visit this amazing country and explore the rich culture,” Turner added.
Sponsored by Tamer Group, A.K. Saeed Group and Lallo Restaurant, the exhibition allowed art enthusiasts to exchange ideas with the photographers and gain insight into the region’s burgeoning art scene.

Revealed: The secrets of French cream

Whether it is balancing the taste of unsweetened cocoa or the sourness of a lemon, cream is the most essential ingredient in most desserts, especially in cakes and pastries, where it is used as a binding agent as well as for decoration. A good product of cream enriches flavor in both savory and sweet dishes.
Since cream plays multiple roles in improving the taste, texture, binding and presentation of food, an umbrella organization of France’s dairy industry — CNIEL and the European Union — has embarked on a three-year global campaign to raise awareness of French dairy cream.
Under the theme “Cream of Europe”, the campaign will allow top chefs and professionals a chance to learn a variety of methods and techniques by which they can use European cream to complement their pastries and other desserts.
Following the campaign launch, a workshop was held in Dubai with two exclusive masterclasses dedicated to pastry professionals in Saudi Arabia. The first workshop took place in Riyadh and a second one in Jeddah at Le Concheur, where several top Saudi food bloggers and chefs in both the cities attended the successful event.
Ludovic Audaux, a complex executive pastry chef at The St. Regis Dubai, W Dubai and The Westin Dubai Al Habtoor City, hosted the master classes and presented his personal version of the Brest, a French dessert using European cream and discussed the benefits of choosing the cream for cakes, pastries and desserts.
Chef Ludovic shared his expertise, saying: “The Paris-Brest is one of the most famous traditional French desserts, created by Chef Louis Durand in 1910 and it continues to provide inspiration to the best pastry chefs who constantly seek to reinvent it. Besides its popularity, choosing Bret for the workshop was to promote the dairy cream that is the key ingredient in it.”
He stated that cream is an essential ingredient in every sophisticated pastry and European cream responds perfectly to it. The delicate taste of the cream and its outstanding performance in cooking, or any preparation, embodies the French tradition and authenticity.
Chef Ludovic grew up in France and started baking when he was just eight-years-old. His passion continued into his teenage years, and he started working in a bakery, aged 15 where he discovered the charming world of the French patisserie.
“Being the key ingredient for any kind of sweets and pastries, the cream used in it needs to be 100 percent natural, especially while replicating the French patisseries or desserts. The flavors added to it need to be original,” he said.

He mentioned that usually the desserts and pastries use creams that are made with vegetable oil, which changes the taste and consistency considerably. It is important that the food industry and gourmands learn that the French dairy creams are 100 percent natural and its consistency remains the same after long-life pasteurization. The French patisseries or desserts are described as silky, creamy, smooth and shiny texture due to the smoothness of the natural dairy cream.
“Natural means 100 percent cow’s milk and because of that the qualities are really natural and doesn’t even change the flavor or quality of any kind of French cream at all,” says Chef Audaux.
During the workshop, attendees were taught how to whip cream and how to bake with it while showing different qualities of cream and emphasizing the fact that better quality makes a difference in the end product.
“The main problem is that many of them here use blended cream with vegetable oil as it’s cheaper. Besides it’s not natural and highly processed, which reduces the quality and level of taste. Through this campaign we are trying to educate local chefs and food industry professionals and are also educating the buyers. We want French pastry to remain the highest quality all over the world.”
Ludovic Audaux has worked in prestigious establishments in France as well as in Qatar and the UAE. Currently he works at The St. Regis Dubai, W Dubai — Al Habtoor City and The Westin Dubai — Al Habtoor City following two years as Complex Executive Pastry Chef at Dubai’s Westin Mina Seyahi and Le Meridien Mina Seyahi, where he oversees the entire pastry and baking operations for the hotel’s 18 outlets while bringing creative flair, an abundance of passion and unparalleled expertise in French patisserie to his role.